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| The ancient town of Mértola occupies a lonely but dramatic spot on the west bank of the Guadiana in the southeastern corner of the Alentejo, mid-way between Beja and Vila Real de Santo Antonio. At a classic interfluvial position where the waters of the River Oeiras join with and swell the waters of the Guadiana, an imposign castle fortress, proudly lodged atop a rock outcrop, keeps a watchful eye over all the approaches. |
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| As the most distant inland port of the Mediterranean, Mértola was for about 1,500 years a renowned centre of commerce with a thriving import and export trade serving the rich agricultural lands of the Alentejo including Beja, Serpa and Castro Verde. At its peak in about the 6th century, some 150 years before the arrival of Islam, the walls of Mértola encompassed an area of between 6 and 7 hectares and contained a population of about 2000. |
| However, when Kind D. Sancho II of Portugal conquered Mértola from the Moors in 1238, the city’s long established links with the Mediterranean were curtailed. Without international trade, the port city rapidly deteriorated and within a few decades it was reduced to little more than an isolated rural backwater. Ironically, it now appears that the very isolation of Mértola may ultimately prove to be the town’s fortune. Due to the fact that Mértola experienced little if any urban development until comparatively recently, the old battlement perimeter has survived largely in tact. This is by contrast with the experience of many other historic cities, for example Silves, where the construction of new roads and buildings caused large sections of the medieval Islamic fortifications to be dismantled over the course of the past 200 years or so. |
| Indeed, the aspect of Mértola today is very much the same as it was 1000 years go. The basic layout of the old town, still follows the Islamic pattern, whilst some streets undoubtedly follow routes going back even further, to the Roman and pre-Roman eras. Because there has been so little land disturbance here, the quality of the archaeological material recovered has proved something of a phenomenon. For over 20 years, archaeologist Dr Cláudio Torres, director of the Campo Archaeológio de Mértola (CAM), has been leading his team of investigators towards the unravelling of the forgotten past of the town. |
| The years of dedication to the project have certainly paid off and Mértola now boasts one of the most interesting museums in the whole of Portugal - and, indeed, this is no ordinary Museum. In order to encourage the visitor to walk around the space of the old town, the Museum is divided up into a number of museological nuclei spread throughout the town each representing either different periods of the town’s history or relating to specific sites or “arqueosítios” as Dr Torres prefers to call them – archaeological stations preserved along with their respective artefacts. To date, there are 9 such nuclei, including the Roman House collection (in the basement of the Town Hall), the sacred Art collection (in the Church of the Misericórdia) and the Blacksmith’s Forge (in the Rua da Afreita). |
| Last December saw the opening of the latest nucleus to be added to the list. This is the Islamic Museum of Mértola, a collection of pieces which includes a dazzling array of exquisite ceramic work, all gathered and painstakingly restored by Torres and his team. The collection has been acclaimed as the best assembly of Islamic material ever gathered in Portugal and one of the best in the world. |
| Much of what is displayed in the Islamic Museum has been gathered from the Islamic Bairro of Mértola situated inside the alcaçova (citadel). Here, over the ruins of the old Roman palatine zone, CAM’s excavations revealed that, in about the mid 12th century, the Muslims had built a group of dwelling houses. So far about 18 have been identified, but indications are that there could well be a similar number again are just waiting to be unearthed. Apparently these houses were only occupied for a relatively short time and were abandoned soon after the Christina conquest in 1238. The houses are typical of the type found all over the Mediterranean world during that period and comprise a series of rooms clustered around a central uncovered patio. |
| The contents of these houses has proved particularly satisfying yielding a good deal of information about the daily lives of the medieval Moorish inhabitants, including the manner in which they prepared their food, the type of foods that were eaten and something about the ways in which they spent their leisure time – excavations have revealed boards and counters for Back-Gammon, Three-in-a-Line and even Noughts and Crosses (apparently Chess, although a popular game of the time, would only have been found in rich households). |
| The mosque at Mértola was constructed at about the same time as the houses in the Islamic Bairro. It still exists today, however the fall of Mértola to Christendom in 13th century caused the mosque to be converted into the parish church. Nevertheless, the exterior walls of the Mosque have survived without substantial alteration and four Islamic doorways survive each displaying the classic horseshoe arch feature. Furthermore, inside, the mirhab (niche indicating the direction of Mecca and acting as a focus for the faithful) is still clearly discernible, showing a chipped bass relief in stucco. |
| Apart from its fascinating history, Mértola is a charming city to visit. The friendly rural atmosphere and pleasant traditional cafés combine with the natural beauty of the surrounding hills and valleys to make a thoroughly refreshing change from the bustle of the coast. Definitely worth a visit. |
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